Adventures with Niko and Kaia: Carretera Austral Part 3

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We ended up staying in the small town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo for quite a few nights. Originally we simply needed to find a campground with a good strong internet connection because Mormor (Swedish for Grandma) was having a serious back surgery and we wanted to be as well connected as possible -- something not always possible on the Carretera Austral. Not sure if we would have stayed there that long otherwise, but we were all glad we did because it provided a very different experience after bouncing along the gravel roads for days, always on the move without getting a chance to experience every day life. Puerto Rio Tranquilo is located right on the banks of the surreal blue Lago General Carrera (or Lago Buenos Aires as it is known in Argentina as it straddles the border), Chile's largest lake which thunders its way to the Pacific along the voluminous Baker River.

Niko and Kaia tremendously enjoyed their time away from car seats and seat belts. Games of hide and seek continued day and night with new groups of friends who arrived and left with their families each day. Marcela, the lovely owner of the campground encouraged them to pick as many cherries as they could, which they turned into jam and shared with her on her fresh bread. A Fiesta Costumbrista (rodeo) held at the stadium next door provided a source of entertainment mixed with horror. Kaia was especially upset at how roughly the horses were handled by the gauchos and then made to buck with the help of sharp spurs. At the same time, it was fascinating to hear guitarists banter their payadas, improvisational songs filled with witty jokes and challenges, for hours on end.

Few culinary creations elicit more pride for a Patagonian than Cordero al Palo -- whole lamb slowly roasted (usually vertically) over an open wood fire for hours. We were sitting in the kitchen finishing breakfast when a neighbor of Marcela's barged in and threw a whole carcass on the table next to our bread and cheese. Niko watched for a little while, but Kaia proved to be just the audience the asador was seeking. Don't worry, that's actually cherry jam she's licking off her fingers!

LA CHIQUITA ASADORITA

We loved walking to this island one afternoon.

An island adventure

Not your average hike.

Sometimes grownups can be so-o-o slo-o-ow...

A whole island, all to ourselves!

Putting Monty to the test: Checking out the Northern Ice Fields

Rio Tranquilo marks the northern edge of the remnants from the last glaciation as well as the highest peaks in Patagonia. Though the road through the Valle Exploradores is notoriously rough, we were too close to miss it, so with our new friend Stephan (some cool pics and stories too), snacks, water and fuel, we headed west toward the Northern Patagonian Ice Fields.

Who ever thought driving through rivers could be so much fun??

Suddenly, around a corner we saw this...

The road never quite makes it to the Pacific, but very near there is a trail that leads up a rock slope where, on the other side, we got our first views of the glacier and Monte San Valentin, the highest peak in Patagonia.

MARBLE CAVES OF LAGO GENERAL CARRERA

6,200 years of water sculpting resulted in the coolest caves, accessible only by boat.

Moving on: South to Cochrane

Finding out that Mormor was at least back at home after the surgery, we hit the road again, this time headed to Cochrane to load up on supplies before crossing over to Argentina.

The next turn we took we were so glad to pass friends we had met on the Chacabuco ferry a week prior. Here we thought we were so adventurous, and this family of four - Wibke, Axel and their two kids Smilla and Selma, ages 5 and 2 - was making the same section by bike!